Saturday, June 7, 2008

Can you dig it?! -- updated, more pics!


(I can dig it!)


("sure Logan, I'll bury you in your hole")


I never thought I'd say this, but here it is: I'm in Cancun.


(yes, this is Cancun and what GIVES with that bathing suit)


Logan and I ended up catching a ride with an English guy (who incidetally bought his car in Vancouver, and has driven down to Mexico) and a Spanish gal (who incidentally lives in England) from Palenque to Tulum. We skipped a bunch of the touristy stuff, like waterfalls, because the weather was so rainy and they were apparently less than spectacular at this time of year. Plus, sweet ride!

We arrived in the Yucatan after a long car-ride of as many 80's tunes as we could handle (catering to the crowd -- it was a riot being the young kids for a change), to a city called Tulum. I don't have any pics here of Tulum, as they don't have a DVD reader at this place, and my pics are on DVD (although I'm sure that you could have logically put that together without me spelling it out, it makes my post longer, and after all, I do get paid by the word, as you may have guessed based on the incredible length of this completely unnecessary sentence, which turns out to be completely false anyway).


(military checkpoint)

Right, the pics of Tulum (us in the rain). It rained for the 3 days that we were there. However, we did manage to go to the beach a few times, as I think I mentioned in my last post.


(sometimes the wind blows in Tulum apparently)


(not my fault, it's genetic)

We also checked out some ruins at Coba, in the rain.


(I'm at the top)


The highlight of that day was the cult dressed in white that climbed to the top of "the" pyramid (some 42 m high, and the largest in Mesoamerica.. this may not be accurate, but none of you would've checked if I hadn't written this) -- sideways, might I add... apparently to harness the energies of the pyramid *cough* bullshit *cough* -- and did some get-freaky song ritual at the top, in the rain. I felt badly for the one white-dressed fella in the wheelchair at the bottom of the pyramids. He was all alone, and getting rained on. But that was okay because "you are there in spirit, the body is only a vessel" (or some*cough*bullshit*cough*thing).


(!)

From Tulum, we headed to Isla Mujares (Woman Island) off the coast of Cancun. The second we got on the ferry for the island, the sun started shining, and it hasn't stopped since. Booya!


(Isla Mujares)


(delicious fish dinner)

Let's see, again, I don't have the pics to go with the story, but here's a good day: In the morning, the three pranksters (Olatz, Logan, and I) decided to hitch-hike to the far end of the island. Or walk, it was only 8 km, whichever came first. Well a few clicks into the walk, a *very* friendly Mexican man pulled over in his golf cart to give us a ride.



(what a pimp ride - the house behind us, although not a great picture, is pretty incredible. It's the house of an architect, and is shaped like a conch shell.)


Being a gentleman, I took the front seat (the hot seat.. the one that has to talk to the driver). After about 5 minutes (in which time we talked about origin, family, blood types, and how good looking I am) he had put his arm around me and pulled me close. This was a fat man. And he was HAMMERED. Did I mention this was before 11 AM? Right, anyway, no worries Jonno, free ride, the Mexicans are just friendly people. Then the hand works its way onto the leg. My leg. My thy to be exact. My inner thy. Ummm, free ride, free ride, he's drunk, we're cool.



("ummm, you're cute and all, and I dig the bling, but por favor, señor...the hand must go")

After a brief stop for water and a reprieve from sexy-time, we got back in dr. swerves-a-lot golf cart on our ride around bizarro-land. Eventually we were all wigged out and just told him to stop and we got out. Great. Now where were we. Thankfully, we saw red plastic chairs at a restaurant just a few minutes back.


(deceptive red chaired restaurant)

As an aside, plastic chairs are the backpackers gold in Mexico. I may dedicate a whole blog entry to them at some point in the future. They're the number one indicator of cheap eats. Follow this rule and you'll save thousands (individual results may vary).

Alas, these are special Yucatan red chairs. Still American prices. Damn. Guacamole it was (and still $8!). BUT, the owner-chef took a liking to us. I don't blame him really. He deals with fat package tourists who think it's a splendid deal to pay $15 for a meal, day in and day out, and we were a broke-but-welcome change of scenery. So after our guac, he showed us where to go for free snorkeling and gave us some masks and snorkels.


(snorkel fight, par for the course)

What a beautiful thing! Afterwards, we returned to his restaurant and had a few "red-eyes" -- beer with clamato juice, lime, pepper, and probably something else I'm forgetting.

Another aside, Clamato = Clam + Tomato. Who KNEW!?

Then he brought us a load of free seafood with nachos, and free beers, and dolled out tonnes of great information about Belize (where we're heading next). Just a great guy. After the last of the "other" tourists left, he shut down the restaurant and we hopped in his truck for a bit of an island tour.



(the water in the Yucatan is gorgeous)



(sometimes, you just gotta yell at the ocean)


Although all the places were shut, he's a bit of a big deal on the island apparently, and got us in for free to some great places on the island (like a giant lighthouse that overlooks a metal-art park on a peninsula in the ocean).


(view from the lighthouse, look at all that twisted metal... "art")

After the tour, we headed for some eats, and then partied all throught the night. Deeelicious day.
Right, so from Isla, we came to Cancun. Olatz had to fly out of Cancun back to the homeland, and we were done with the island anyway. While looking for a hostel, we were bombarded by a man offering another hostel. Usually this is the kind of thing that gets a "gracias" (which is, no thanks) and a walk-by, but for some reason we decided to chat. It sounded like a pretty good deal, so he called the owner who came and picked us up.

That night, we stayed in the nicest place I've stayed on my trip. We were in Cancun, but not really in Cancun. It was totally laid back, the staff were so great, we were some of the only guests, we had our own beach, and then there was the room. We opened the doors, and there was a California king bed to greet us, with the air con and the TV. Around the corner there was the gigantic bathroom with a shower with a view, beday (which of course I accidently sprayed myself in the face with while trying to figure out how to work it), and walk in closet that could sleep 15.


(bling bling look at the King!)

Oh, not to mention our ocean-view, and breakfast IN BED. All for $13 each. Baaaam!


(the view from bed)

After Olatz left, we decided to move downtown, to be more in the heart of the action. Last night, we found the action. One two skip a few, and then today, we were awakened by some friends from Puerto Escondido (and subsequently San Cristobal), a lovely surprise! And we headed to the beach (we couldn't not see the beach in Cancun now could we...).


(friends from previous places)


Which takes us to where we are now, digging holes in the beach. Today we skipped going to Chitzen Itza (one of the most important and impressive Mayan ruin sites in Mexico along with Palenque), to dig holes in the beach. This was definitely the right decision.


(we attracted a fan club)


(it's a celebration, LOOK at that hole!)


(the cancun sand really sticks to the velcro on my chest)

And this brings me to the end of my first Mexican adventure.... que estraña! It's been quite a trip, that's for sure. Thanks to those who made it wicked.

And now, onward to Belize!

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Palenque - We Got Ruined!


(a picture that you will see from every tourist that ever has visited Palenque)

From San Cristobal, we took a short bus ride (5 hours) to Palenque, (click here to read a bit about it), home of some of the most important Mayan ruins. Right into the middle of the jungle. Now THAT's humid. I haven't been dry for days.

We arrived at night, and it immediately started pouring. We decided to spend the first night in town, before heading out in the morning to get a new hostal and visit the ruins.


(rainy season)

This was great stop for me, as I spent quite a bit of time in Tepotzlan and Amatlan learning about the Mayan culture and the importance of this place.


(just a couple of old-school Mayans)


(house on a hill)


(we met some Swiss people who had a big vine, which of course, we saw as a giant skipping rope)


(jungle jump-rope, booya!)


(we wandered off the beaten path and found this little-known waterfall, a brilliant cool-off after the relentless heat and humidity at the ruins)

We stayed at a famous back-packer haunt, cut out of the jungle a few kilometers from the ruins. There's really not much to do in this place, and it's far to hot to stay and chill out, so after checking out the ruins, we decided to move on to where we are now, Tulum (more to come about this).

And now for an arousing game of "Where's Logan?" Logan exists in all of these pictures. Seek and ye shall find!


(#1)


(#2)


(#3)


Tulum is a beautiful beach town on the Yucatan peninsula, however, it's the rainy season. I can imagine it being a little slice of paradise if the weather would co-operate, but we've not seen the sun for days, and are probably going to move on before getting the chance to enjoy it. There's not much point in staying in a slightly more expensive place on the beach, when you can't enjoy the beach. We DID go to the beach yesterday anyway, but the rain whipped against us like little pellets. White sand for miles in all directions, and we were the only fools in sight (except for one little mexican boy who was eating mud).

San Cristobal

San Cristobal! (click on the name to see where it is... click here to read a bit about it)

Logan and I, totally partied out, stumbled away from Puerto Escondido. We took an overnight bus (thankfully uneventful, given the rash of robberies that we've been told about on the night busses in the area) to San Cristobal, in the state of Chiapas, about 13 hours from PE. We went to bed on the beach, and woke up in a mountain jungle.



(Typical San Cristobal, outside the Zocolo / tourist area -- Chiapas is the poorest state in Mexico)


(rainy season -- but we weren't going to let that stop us from watching hockey -- a few days later I learned to poke a hole in the top of the bag)

After not stopping sweating for the entire time in Puerto, I was looking forward to a reprieve from this drippy existence. San Cristobal provided some cool relief in the evenings. We stayed there for... 5 or 6 days, and did some really great day trips. First we went horse-back riding for 5 hours, to a small village outside of San Cristobal.



(riding my stallion, Winnie)


(que vista!)


(the market in the small town, lively and full of tourist prices)

Another of our day trips took us to an amazing set of waterfalls, called Chiflon. The waterfall was 120 meters high, but you could only see 80, as it was cascaded. It lacks the shear power of Niagara, but in some ways because of the natural setting and lack of tourist appeal, it was more beautiful.


(obviously still doing a lot of body training)


(living on the edge... taken just moments after defeating a giant crocodile in a fierce one-on-one battle)


(life for me is a waterfall fantasy)


(living out my waterfall fantasy)


(tastes like waterfall)

And then, we moved on.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Why You Should Surf!



(the Fonz ain't got nada on Jon Booze!)


Logan hath arrived!


I took off from paradise (Mazunte, the beach) to go back to Oaxaca to get my bag and meet Logan at the airport. Although the trip was thankfully slightly less exciting than the one with the drunk boob-grabber, my travel partner did end up tossing her cookies into a bag. How delicious. No problem when you're sitting ON TOP of each other. 5 people wide in a mini-van through the mountains, yummy!


We spent a day in Oaxaca before heading into the mountains for a few days. Logan unpacked his bag there for the first time and discovered that packing is an art-form.



("what do you MEAN I need to pack things in plastic bags?")

Sunscreen:1 Logan's bag: 0.





(living in a cloud)


It was pretty wild. The clouds would roll in around sunset and the whole place looked like it tasted like marshmellows.


After a few nights chilling in the clouds, we decided it was definitely time for the beach. Back to Mazunte. There was a giant going-away party for 3 of the girls that had been living there for a long time. It was a gala of sorts. Of course, as practical tourists, we don't exactly have gala clothes. But we have imagination. Ya that's right....duct tape ties! The ladies couldn't stay away. Literally, when they got too close, they were stuck. Brilliant.


(party time, pre high-school drunk)


(ummmm)

One day we went on a boat tour of a sweet water lagoon. It's horribly inaccurate to call it sweet water. It's fresh water. The water probably tasted like crocodile pee. I guess that means that it's not even fresh. We'll call it non-salt water. ANYway...



(Jonathan:1 Baby crocodile:0)


(hungry crocodile... I wasn't worried, the Mexican tourists were fatter than us.)


Fast forward a week, and one town down the road, Puerto Escondido! This place is a world class surf spot. And a world class party spot. We came for 2 days. But we still haven't left. I think it was 4 days ago, but days and nights just kinda meld into one.


Yesterday we went fishing at the sunrise.


(a sunRISE... amazing. I thought it was myth.)


(AH, the accidental duplicate upload of the sunrise.)


In the first 5 minutes, I caught a big-ass tuna that fed about 10 people in the hostel. We cooked it up for dinner. Well, actually, another guy cooked it up for dinner, then fed us tequilla. They say that "the Devil's in the details." How misguided. The devil is CLEARLY dwelling in the bottom of the tequilla bottle.


(Ocean: 10 trillion. Jonathan: 1)


Then in the afternoon, we went surfing!! I've never surfed before. In case you're in the same boat and you get the chance, I might offer some advice:


1) DO IT. It's so much fun.

2) Have insurance.

3) Wear nipple guards. My nipples have never been so sore in my life. I have chafing. I wore a bikini top last night to protect my nipples when we got home from the bar. Again, more proof that the devil is in the tequilla bottle, not the details.


(boys and their toys)

Logan time is awesome.


And now...?

Saturday, May 3, 2008

Would YOU blog?


(the Fonz ain´t got nada on Jon Booze)


(home)

Okay, here's the synopsys.

Jonathan gets an email from Nomi, his friend from Tepoztlan.
Nomi´s plans fell through, so she comes to visit Jonathan.
They decide that the beach is the best.



(They decide that hitch hiking to the beach is best.)



(They decide that a $5 bus after sitting on the side of the road, for 3 hours, is the best.)


They may not decide this if they knew that they were going to be going through possibly the windiest road on the planet through the mountains for the next 6 hours with a man so drunk that he grabbed my manboobs, and almost fell out the door of the second class broken-ass bus which was wide open for the first 3 hours.


(They decided correctly, the beach is the best.)


(20 minute walk, NO people, white sand)

I have had an unbelieveable... actually, I don´t know how long I´ve been here... 10 days? The water is perfect. The waves are perfect. The people are fun and full of life. There is jamming happening every night with incredible musicians.




Life is oozing gold.


(three clowns and a natural jacuzzi-- me, Nomi, Chile)


I am leaving in 2 days to go back to Oaxaca to pick up Logan, who has decided to stop reading the blog and start doing the blog! OHhhhhh ohhhh!

Ever see a ninja?


(me either)

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Feeling fat?

Don't. It's all relative.



(Now THAT's fat)


Between 2000 and 3000 years old. Over 635,000 tonnes. That's like, 250 pounds a year, on average.

Now, let's say you're 60. And let's say you weigh 200 pounds. That's just over 3 pounds a year.

You're hardly on track for history.


(I had to back up to the fence to get the whole tree in the pic)

Then again, you're not 42 meters high, and probably don't have a circumference of 58 meters either. This tree is the world's largest biomass, located in a small town, El Tule, just outside of Oaxaca city.


(fatty's little brother, barely 1000 years old)

My apologies for the sideways pic. But it took 10 minutes to upload, and I'm not doing it again, do that head turning thing we all do when we look at sideways pics)

From Taxco, I came to where I am now, Oaxaca city, in Oaxaca state. Wa-ha-ka. It's beaaaautiful here. And there's a tonne to do, if you feel like being a good little tourist. Which, today, I did.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

An Up and Down Birthday

As I´ve given the emotional reaction to being 28, I'll now tell you how I brought in this fine year...


Although I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Tepotzlan/Amatlan, it was time to go. I can see why there are so many white-haired gringos there: it would be easy to come for a week, and stay for a lifetime. But there is so much more of Mexico left to see!


So... onward ho!


I went to Taxco, a silver city. They claim that it's the first place in the world that created jewellery from silver, but history as we know, is written by the writers. What a deep insight. Anyway, the city is mainly a touristy town, with a beautiful center (Zocalo) where people still congregate at nights to just hang out and eat sweets. This is a common thing in Mexico, and a really great part of the culture.


Taxco is another Mexican mountain-side town. No wonder there are so many booty-licious people here... I would also have a licious booty if I had to live on the side of a mountain, climbing up and down all the days. Taxco's main tourist draw is still it's silver, with a million little shops selling everything imaginable of silver. The irony is that all the hills of Taxo have been mined to the hilt, and only about 5% of the silver used to make these trinkets comes from the area.

Anywhoo, my friend Ana came to visit me for my birthday. How sweet and kind is that. And an up and down day few days it was!

We rode a cable car up to fancy-pants resort for a spectacular birds-eye view of the city.


(the up)

And we went an hour outside of the town to explore some INCREDIBLE caves...



(the down).

At night, we went to the restaurant/bar in the hotel we were staying in to have a few drinks. I'm pretty sure it was a gay bar. As soon as Ana got up to use the washroom, a guy came at me like a laser-beam, drunkenly slurring spanish in my direction while full-on giving me the hump-me eyes. Not that I know these eyes, I read about them in a book once. He was sorely disappointed that my eyes did not reciprocate. But there was a rockin' band, and all people were just having a good time.

Yes, and then I was 28.