Zero blog posts, one case of Delhi belly, two moons, three books from the Game of Thrones series, and four beaches ago, we landed in India. A lot happens in two moons on the road; so much so, that I hardly know where to start.
We've spent our time thus far in the south of India. In Kerala and Karnataka. More seasoned Indian travelers tell us that these places are the most chill places in India. When I'm white-knuckling it as our bus attempts to pass another bus at breakneck speed on a road wide enough for one car, with another bus barreling toward us, my life flashing before my eyes, I remember how this -- this breeches-filling, knuckle-breaking, heart-stopping traffic -- this, is the "chill" southern India.
When you're not in transit, it's a much different story. The pace of life is relaxed. The smiles are bright. The people, for the most part, are very kind and helpful. In the more remote places, my celebrity-empathy increases, as throngs of Indians ask you to take photos with them. There is prestige associated with having many pictures with foreigners. Pictures of foreigners are collected like trophies, to be displayed on Facebook so all of your friends know how special you are ('look at Prabu with the goras! oh Prabu is so charismatic and popular!'). But even if you refuse their photos (sometimes, being an animal in a zoo is just too much; family members lining up one at a time to get their picture taken with the whiteys, when all you want to do is watch a sunset) the people are friendly.
Sunrise arrival in Gokarna
Photo courtesy of Clara Bitcon, fantastic Aussie
For the last two weeks, we've been staying at a little beach called Om Beach (named for it's shape) in Gokarna, Karnataka. The days have blurred together, and most days I'm not sure what day or date it is. It's really a wonderful feeling. I still know the month. Days are spent reading, swimming, eating, playing cards, and relaxing with a group of wonderful people that we met here. We live in a tiny mud hut with a thatched roof, complete with a sloping 5 inch gap above the closed door, and a holey mosquito net (that we've patched with duct tape as best we can). Alas, our time in Gokarna is coming to an end. The restaurant at our accommodation (which served good food, and overlooks the beach) closed today. The majority of the people we have been spending our time with left yesterday en masse. So, in the next few days we'll head up the coast. The time here has been really wonderful. My shoulders are receding away from my ears. Not a bad way to turn 32, not bad at all :)
